I had a day off today, so three other volunteers and I went down to Juárez for the day. It's a busy city, with pastel walls of different colors, honking cars, and street vendors. We had tacos and enchiladas for lunch and then walked through the feria. The feria is a maze of small tents selling necklaces, mugs, sombreros, cakes, donuts, belts, chicks, rabbits, and more. The sun is so strong that it's almost impossible not to stop and buy helado, or a heaping cup of fresh pineapple or mango. All around the city there are pictures of the famous gay Mexican singer Juan Gabriel, who is from Juárez. Nicknamed "Juanga" or "El Divo de Juárez" he's known throughout Central and South America for his flamboyant style, which broke barriers in Latin American music. Two of my fellow volunteers (from Bolivia and Columbia) told me that everyone is always listening to him. Sad, happy, anxious or mellow—Gabriel is what is playing. My friend from Columbia said that al...